Overland from Ulaanbaatar to Lhasa

In 2012, I had planned to take an overland tour from Kathmandu to Lhasa in Tibet, and from there continue by train up to Beijing and onto Mongolia. Unfortunately, due to political problems in Tibet the month I was due to travel, there were no tours available. Instead, I flew to Beijing, though ironically via Lhasa.

Fast forward a few years, and joined by a couple of couple of friends, it is time to try again, though this time in reverse

It is 6am, and our journey commences. First stop, Ulaanbaatar’s railway station travelling in easily Mongolia’s most popular car, a Toyota Prius. Exactly on time at 7.30, train 24 departs. We are sharing a 4-bed compartment with an elderly French man, who is on the last leg of the Trans Mongolian from Moscow.

As the central city slowly disappears from view, apartment blocks replaced by houses, which eventually thin out to the vast expanses of empty land and endless skies that we had so admired while travelling through Mongolia over the previous week.

At the end of each carriage is a hot water dispenser, and instant noodles are popular choice for those not eating in what we thought, was an overpriced dining car. We make a couple of stops as we head south toward the Chinese border, each with enough time to wander up and down the platform, re-stocking essential snacks of biscuits and Russian chocolate.

By late afternoon, we have entered the Gobi region and flat arid land, stretches toward the horizon. It is time for some of the local vodka that we have brought on board with us. Dusk arrives, and we arrive at the last station in Mongolia. Another hours’ travel brings us to Erlian, the first stop over the border in China.

The attendants in our carriage indicate that we have to disembark. A queue forms outside the station entrance, as our train moves away from the platform and disappears out of sight. The doors open, and we make our way through immigration. Upstairs are two large waiting rooms where we find the rest of the passengers from our train. Down stairs, a large queue has formed by an open window. For the man outside, business is booming, instant noodles, beer and ice creams are in hot demand. Finally, by 1am an announcement means we can re-board our train.

The morning greets us with green rolling hills covered in solar panels, newly constructed roads, bridges and railway lines.

We arrive on schedule at 12.30pm into Beijing Railway Station, and make our way through the crowds gathered outside the entrance. Our hotel for the night is across the road, and with our train to Lhasa scheduled to leave at 8pm the next day, we have just over 30 hours in the city. It is an opportunity to collect our reserved tickets, and for some sightseeing at Tiananmen Square and the Temple of Heaven, plus buying more supplies for the next couple of days.

Before we left Ulaanbaatar, our Tibet tour agency, had been in contact. Our Tibet travel permits had finally been issued, and once at Beijing West Station, these are carefully examined before we are allowed to board.

The train pulls out of the station, with instrumental covers of Elton John by Pan Flute, filling our carriage from the ceiling mounted speakers. There are oxygen outlets by each bed and along the hallway, which attendants walk down handing out to us an English version of the plateau travel instructions. They state, that passengers can only travel after finishing their physical examination approved by a doctor, due to the possible effects of travelling at over 3000m altitude. Heart conditions, respiratory ailments, diabetes, pregnancy, the list went on.

By midday, we arrive into Lanzhou station, passing rows of new apartment blocks, which we are told are designed to replace the old slums alongside the railway line. For most passengers it is an escape from the train out onto the platform. The windows of our carriage are quite dirty, not ideal for any upcoming photo opportunities. Many other passengers including us, hurriedly clean off as much grime as possible with wet wipes before a whistle signals, it is time to head back on board.

Xining is next around 3pm, and once the city is behind us we follow the shoreline of Qinghai Lake. Clusters of houses are dotted along its shoreline, and Tibetan prayer flags make their first appearance, draped in masses over poles and small hills alongside of the railway line.

At the end of each carriage, we find an electronic panel, which displays the current altitude. On our second morning, the sun slowly rises over a very barren landscape outside of our window. I check the attitude and we are at 5000m. However, earlier we had slept through and missed the highest point of the journey, the Tanggula Pass at 5231m.

Over the next a couple of hours, we descend slightly. Small villages and grazing herds of yaks start to appear, with a backdrop of snow-capped mountains and clear blue skies.

Our first stop of the morning is at Nagqu. Leaving the oxygen enriched warm interior, the outside air feels thin and cool. The effects of the altitude gain apparent, with a tightness in our chests mixed with a little queasiness. Some other passengers appear overcome, and are seated inside breathing through nose tubes connected the oxygen outlets.

The return of Elton John, signals that we are approaching Lhasa. Our passports and travel permits are re-checked before we exit the station out to a waiting congregation of taxis and tour guides. We spot our names on a sign held aloft, and traditional Khata white scarves are placed around our necks. “Tashi delek, welcome to Tibet”.