Georgia: The land of wine

Many years ago I was told the story of a distant relative who had lived in Georgia during the 1930’s, only to become a victim of Joseph Stalin’s brutal dictatorship.

This was not a country which I ever though I would visit, but in 2019 on an early overcast October morning, our overnight train from Baku, arrives into Tbilisi’s central station. Waiting for us among multitude of passengers swarming about the platform, we find our driver who we’ve arranged to take us to our Airbnb apartment.

Wide tree lined boulevards, eventually give way to narrow winding cobblestoned streets. There is a distinct lack of any reminders of the Soviet Union, although passing through Freedom Square, at its centre a high plinth is the location of a golden statue of Saint George, previously this was Lenin. One exception is Kartlis Deda, the statue of Mother Georgia, who imposingly looks down over the city from the top of Sololaki hill next to the crumbling ruins of Narikala Fortress.

Far below, from our balcony we overlook one of the famous sulphur bath complexes, which today being a Saturday is serving as a photographic location for multiple wedding parties. Lying asleep on the on pavement blissfully unaware of the surrounding commotions, are residents of Tbilisi’s stray dog population, reported to be much happier due to a program of de-sexing and vaccinating.

Wandering through the bustling roads of the old town, we take a break in the very ornately decorated Café Leila, which turns out is also a popular location for wedding photographs. Close by, the Gabriadze Theatre’s, clock tower gathers groups of mostly Russian tourists, to view the hourly performance of its bell being struck by a small puppet.

There are also many other café’s to choose from, some with enticing signs placed on the pavement outside. Hello wine, goodbye problems. Save the earth it’s the only planet with wine. There is always time for a glass of wine. For us that starts tomorrow, as we start the first of our three organised day tours out of the city, with Envoy Tours.

Early the next morning, we pass by examples of some unusual soviet architecture, mixed with more modern apartment blocks, which overlook the Mtkevari River.

Taking the Georgian military highway, we climb up into the Caucasus mountain range toward the Russian border. Our first stop is at picturesque Ananuri, then onward passing through the Gudauri ski resort, a popular day trip from Tibilisi, before arriving at the Russia-Georgia friendship monument.

The dramatic location perched on the edge of a deep valley, is a magnet for paragliders which fearlessly swoop close by and circle around overhead.

Stepantsminda is our lunch stop at a local family’s home. From their front door Mount Kazbegi looms high above the village, its snow-capped summit visible through passing clouds, and the much photographed Gergeti church, visible on the lower slopes.

Khinkali, beef and pork dumplings are accompanied by many other locally made specialities, served with soup, bread, homemade red and white wine, and our first introduction to Cha Cha the nationally popular spirit, which is perhaps best described as grape Vodka. There is a mandatory toast, which we are encouraged to drink in one go, as we’re informed that this is the Georgian tradition.

Kakheti is the most eastern region of the county, bordering with Azerbaijan. Famous for grape growing and wine production, it couldn’t be a more suitable location a cultural, food and wine day tour. A small roadside bakery, allows us to buy some freshly baked bread and a sample of one of the many types of Georgian cheeses, whose popularity is easily matched by that of wine.

A walk along the old walls of Sighnaghi, known as the city of love, is a scenic stop before arriving at the Kindzmarauli winery for tastings and a tour. Their semi-sweet red is a hit with everyone in our group.

A local farmhouse is the location for today’s lunch, and we are treated to an even more impressive array of dishes than yesterday. Many toasts follow before a visit to one more winery, Shumi. It is well after dusk by the time we return to Median Square in the heart of the old town.

Despite one of the most popular day tours, venturing across the border into Armenia, for our final day we’ve chosen to remain in Georgia. Gori is the location of our now re-occurring highlight of the day, lunch. Seeking shade from a blazing afternoon sun, we are seated around a single table under the trees in the garden at our host Giorgi’s place, KE&RA, who after lunch insists that any willing participants of our group accompany him to sample his homemade Cha Cha.

“Armenia, they have Kim Kardashian, and we, well we have Stalin”, is our introduction for a visit through Gori’s Stalin museum. Built by the Soviet’s on the site of the house that he grew up in, and still stands, many Georgian’s we’ve spoken to over the last few days do not share the same fascination as many tourists seem to have, of their most infamous countryman. Nether the less we are guided through the museum complex, its walls adorned with many historical photographs, and the gardens outside complete with an armour plated train carriage.

The stunning Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta, is our last stop of the day, and afterward suitably sample some wine ice cream on the way back to the carpark, and our waiting tour bus.

Before our direct flight back to Dubai, on arrival at Tbilisi’s airport, waiting outside a stray dog sits with sunken eyes and a large yellow ear tag. He looks up at us as if to say, I’ll be here waiting for your return.